Party Poker Bonus Code Free

I recently witnessed this in a 4-8 holdem game. A fish who was excellent for the game had busted out again after making 2 previous trips to the ATM and neatly dispensing roughly $500 to the table in general. After busting out, he had only a 50 cent chip on the table. He called the chip runner and placed a $20 on the table. The dealer dealt him in, and he called pre-flop and the flop (investing all of maybe $8 of the $20). Upon completion of the hand, the dealer informed Mr. Fishy of the buy-in min which is $40, unless you have at least $1 left on the table, and then it’s no min. The dealer called the floor to the table and the shift manager happened to be the one to arrive first. She explained the rule and said that Mr. Fishy would have to leave the table or buying for more. Of course, Mr. Fishy didn’t want to hear any of this after losing so much already at the table, AND having already played with some of the buying; but alas, rules are rules. Pretty much the whole table, myself included, pleaded with the manager to allow him to continue to play (I was fairly sure he would make another trip after losing this 20). My question is this, who, if anyone was at fault here (besides the obvious; i.e. the dealer)? And did the manager make the correct call here even after he was allowed to put some of that $20 into play?

Answer 1:

It’s your fault. You should have pitched him 50 cents, stared at the floor man, and said, “He had a dollar on the table, I was just looking at two of his quarters because I collect coins”.

Answer 2:

There was some discussion of this after the fish left. Unfortunately, nobody (myself included) came up with this idea in time. In fact, one person to his right (I think) did toss a dollar chip in front of him and tried to play it off as his, but it wasn’t very good acting I’m afraid. Next time a situation like this occurs, I will do exactly as you suggest. However, it was *hardly* my fault.

Answer 3:

Perhaps it doesn’t mean very much to you, but after more careful consideration of your response, I have to point out that I find your suggestion lacking much integrity. In a game in which the players are still considered to be of morally questionable character, your post only reinforces this stereotype.

I was recently in the BB in a local 4-8 casino game when the following hand came up. I picked up AA in the BB. One UTG raise sent everyone packing except the small blind (who called) and I made it 3 bets to go. The original utg raiser just called and the SB capped it.  3 handed, the flop came T55 rainbow. The small blind checked, I bet out, the utg raiser raised it, the small blind raised, I capped it. Turn came K. At this point I was extremely concerned about the original raiser having KK. Checked to the utg raiser, she bet predictably, and the SB turned to me and said, “I think that card just killed my hand.” Turn came 8 making the final board T55K8 no flushes. SB and I checked and called the utg bet. She proudly shows down 45s, and I muck my hand in disgust after seeing the SB’s QQ. any thoughts on my play of this hand and the play of the others involved would be appreciated. Did the SB make an incorrect play by not raising the
first time around pre-flop? Was there anything I could have done differently here?

Answer 1:

I like all of your play, actually. SB is in a great spot…the UTG raise cleared out almost everybody, so he is getting great disguise on his QQ by just flat calling. Once the flop comes, I still like your play. You are almost certainly winning (With the exception of TT, T5 or X5, which unfortunately happened). Here I might wonder about the SB, but with AA I would feel fairly certain you had him beat as well. The K is a scary card, as one of the two may have KK. The SB is either disguising a set of K’s or has something such as QQ or JJ. I would check and call from here as well. You had a beat by someone that played stupidly and managed to hit a freak flop. Don’t worry about it.

Answer 2:

My guess is that you telegraphed your raise pre-flop. Probably you were either clearly eagerly waiting your chance to raise or you were clearly trying to fake disinterest.

Answer 3:

The QQ called when you were the only player left to act then back-raised. That’s fairly odd behavior. Not many players with QQ would want to give you
a free shot at beating them when they could rid out you and get an extra bet from the UTG limper by raising. Players might call/back raise from middle position, but not from the small blind. But, if the QQ knew you were going to raise, then the call/raise makes perfect sense. If he knows you will raise then he knows that a raise from him won’t get him heads up. So, by letting you raise rather than raising himself he gets 4 bets of strange money in the pot instead of the 2 he’d get by raising himself. I’m pretty sure he knew you were going to raise. I don’t know what you did to tell him that, but if you think carefully I suspect you can figure it out.I might be wrong. But, I don’t think so.

Can anyone point me toOmahastrategy info on the internet? I’m new to the game and would like to learn more (starting hand selection, playing on the flop, turn, etc…) Has anyone written anything onOmahathat is available on the internet?

Answer 1:

The following is a description of a point system for Omaha8 or better. It was originally posted by Edward Hutchison to this group. I pulled it off of Deja News a while back but it turns out that it was easier for me to find this copy than to find it on Deja News again. Edward, I hope that you don’t mind me reposting this. Original post follows
***************************************************************

In a previous thread a poster inquired about a simple means of determining worthwhile starting hands in Omaha Hi-Lo (8 or better). In response, I posted my own humble attempt to methodically evaluate
starting hands. After evaluating input from Nelson Dalla and other contributors, the Hutchison Point System for Omaha Hi-Lo(tm) has been slightly modified. Those interested in a simple mathematical approach to this complex game may find this system helpful, but it should be emphasized that initial card selection, while crucial to success, is not the only skill necessary to maximizeOmaha profits. These other skills, however, do not lend themselves to easy quantification and are beyond the scope of this approach. OMAHA HI-LO POINT SYSTEM Assumptions: A ten-handed game of Omaha Hi-Lo (8 low to qualify), and an average mix of good and poor players like those usually found in a lower-limit game.

Objective: To identify those hands which have at least a 50% above chance expectation of winning? That is, while a random hand should win 10% of the pots in a ten-handed game, the hands identified as ”playable” by this system have at least a 15% probability of winning. To play for HIGH requires that all four of your cards be ten or above AND include 1) two pair, or 2) two double suits, or 3) a pair with the other two cards suited. To play for LOW requires that you count the points in your hand using the following system:

1) Look at your lowest two cards:

A-2 equals 20 points
A-3 = 17 points
A-4 = 13 points
A-5 = 10 points
A-6 = 5 points
2-3 = 15 points
2-4 = 12 points
3-4 = 11 points
anything else = 0 points

2) Look at your two remaining cards (“kickers”) and award points as
follows:

3 = 9 points
4 = 6 points
5 = 4 points
6 = 1 point
T = 1 point
J = 2 points
Q = 2 points
K = 2 points

3) If your have any pairs, add points, as follows:

Aces = 8 points
Kings = 6 points
Queens = 5 points
Deuces = 3 points
any other pair = 2 points

4) If two of your cards are suited and the highest of them is

an ace, add 4 points
a king, add 3 points
a queen or a jack, add 2 points
an 8, 9, or ten, add 1 point

5) Add the total points. Each low hand will earn from zero to 45 points.  PLAY with 20 points or more, and consider RAISING with 30 points or more.

Four examples for clarification:

You are dealt AS, 3S, 5H, KD. DNQ for high. Rule one gives you 17 points for the A-3, rule two grants 4 points for the 5 kicker, rule three does not apply, and rule four gives 4 points for two suited spades headed by an ace. The total points = 25, thus you have a playable hand. You are dealt AC, 2D, 3C, KD. DNQ for high. Rule one means the A-2 is worth 20 points, rule two gives 9 points for the 3 and 2 points for the King, rule three DNA, and rule four awards 4 points for the Ace-high double suited cards and 3 points for the King-high two suited cards. The total for this excellent hand is 38. You may want to raise with it, depending, of course, on a number of other factors. You are dealt AS, AC, 2S, 3C. DNQ for high. Rule one means the A-2 is worth 20 points, rule two grants 9 points for the 3 kicker, rule three awards 8 points for the pair of aces, and rule four means that the two double suited combinations headed by an ace are worth 4 points each or a total of 8 points. The grand total for this once-in-a-lifetime hand is 45. You would hardly need a system to tell you that you have a powerhouse hand.  It is, incidentally, the most profitable hand in Omaha Hi-Lo. You are dealt AS,TS,AC,QD. This hand qualifies for high because it satisfies the condition that 1) all four cards are T or above, and 2) two of the cards are paired and the other two are of the same suit.

NOTES

It should be noted that a very high correlation (but not a one-to- one correspondence) exists between a hand’s point count and its profitability. That is, a low hand that earns 25 points is quite likely to have a higher win percentage (and thus be more profitable) than a hand with 24 points. The same 25-point hand is virtually certain to have a higher win rate than any 20-point hand. Further, an experienced player may eventually decide to make some adjustment for position and, for example, require perhaps 24 points before playing a hand in early position. Obviously, a simple system of this type can not anticipate all such variables that contribute to success in this fascinating and complex game. I hope, though, that these limitations will not detract from the main purpose of this approach, which is to provide a simple aid to the beginner. Feel free to email any questions as this system is not etched in stone. Recall, too, that the basic assumption underlying the system is that it is being used in a ten-handed game at the lower limits where people tend to play too many hands and stay too long.

Answer 2:

Ace high flush =4 points, King high=3.  Not to my way of thinking. When I see Ace high I think nut flush, jam, etc.  When I see King high I think….next hand (unless of course there are many other things going for the hand.

Answer 3:

“But it should be emphasized that initial card selection, while crucial to success, is not the only skill necessary to maximizeOmahaprofits.” Yes it is. ”These other skills, however, do not lend themselves to easy quantification and are beyond the scope of this approach.” Don’t raise when you’re quartered. That’s about it.

“Objective: To identify those hands which have at lea”st a 50% above chance expectation of winning. That is, while a random hand should win 10% of the pots in a ten-handed game, the hands identified as ”playable”" If all ten players will see the flop, you could play any hand with a 10% chance of winning (disregarding position adjustments and playing strength of hands as opposed to showdown strength), or even less if you can outplay your opponents after the flop.

Can anyone recommend some reading on playing short-handed with only 2-4 players sitting at the table?

Answer 1:

You don’t mention what kind of poker you’re specifically interested in, so I’ll presume all kinds. IMHO, the section on short handed play in the 21st Century Edition of Hold’em Poker for Advanced Players is very good, and well worth reading. If you have an older edition of this book and want to specifically focus on improving your short handed play, I believe it is worth the cost of the book to upgrade. The section on short handed play in the 21st Century Edition of Sklansky, Malmuth and Zee’s 7 card stud book isn’t quite as powerful, but that is at least in part due to the fact that as a stud game with antes gets short handed, one shouldn’t change one’s play quite as significantly as one would as a Hold’em game goes from full to short handed.

Answer 2:

If you get a copy of Mason Malmouth’s ‘Holdem for Advanced Players’ there is a chapter or two that discuss playing in a short handed game.

Answer 3:

I haven’t yet read the “21st Century Editions” of the 2+2 books that others are recommending. Everything I know about shorthanded play comes from two places:

(1) A lot of play on the IRC poker server <telnet://irc.poker.net:6667>, and

(2) An article posted a long time ago to r.g.p. by Abdul Jalib.  You can
find it on the B.O.R.G. archive  in the thread ”Short Table Strategy??”.  The URL of the specific article is
. IRC poker play is a great place to get short-handed experience, because opportunities to play short-handed are frequent, and because you can play against opponents of a broad range of skill levels ranging from the total duffer to the seemingly unbeatable.  Its chief lack is the absence of face-to-face contact, so that tell-reading (and tell-shielding) is completely absent. I haven’t had much chance to play short-handed in real life, but the times that I have I’ve done reasonably well. (The high water mark was taking on J.P. Massar and Tim McNerny when a home game didn’t come together.  The fast pace and rhythm of shuffle-deal-play was almost hypnotic, and I found myself playing in the Zone, and walked away winners that night.)