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Answer 1:

It’s your fault. You should have pitched him 50 cents, stared at the floor man, and said, “He had a dollar on the table, I was just looking at two of his quarters because I collect coins”.

Answer 2:

There was some discussion of this after the fish left. Unfortunately, nobody (myself included) came up with this idea in time. In fact, one person to his right (I think) did toss a dollar chip in front of him and tried to play it off as his, but it wasn’t very good acting I’m afraid. Next time a situation like this occurs, I will do exactly as you suggest. However, it was *hardly* my fault.

Answer 3:

Perhaps it doesn’t mean very much to you, but after more careful consideration of your response, I have to point out that I find your suggestion lacking much integrity. In a game in which the players are still considered to be of morally questionable character, your post only reinforces this stereotype.

Answer 1:

I like all of your play, actually. SB is in a great spot…the UTG raise cleared out almost everybody, so he is getting great disguise on his QQ by just flat calling. Once the flop comes, I still like your play. You are almost certainly winning (With the exception of TT, T5 or X5, which unfortunately happened). Here I might wonder about the SB, but with AA I would feel fairly certain you had him beat as well. The K is a scary card, as one of the two may have KK. The SB is either disguising a set of K’s or has something such as QQ or JJ. I would check and call from here as well. You had a beat by someone that played stupidly and managed to hit a freak flop. Don’t worry about it.

Answer 2:

My guess is that you telegraphed your raise pre-flop. Probably you were either clearly eagerly waiting your chance to raise or you were clearly trying to fake disinterest.

Answer 3:

The QQ called when you were the only player left to act then back-raised. That’s fairly odd behavior. Not many players with QQ would want to give you
a free shot at beating them when they could rid out you and get an extra bet from the UTG limper by raising. Players might call/back raise from middle position, but not from the small blind. But, if the QQ knew you were going to raise, then the call/raise makes perfect sense. If he knows you will raise then he knows that a raise from him won’t get him heads up. So, by letting you raise rather than raising himself he gets 4 bets of strange money in the pot instead of the 2 he’d get by raising himself. I’m pretty sure he knew you were going to raise. I don’t know what you did to tell him that, but if you think carefully I suspect you can figure it out.I might be wrong. But, I don’t think so.

Answer 1:

With this type of game, KQo is probably beaten by a small pair or even an over pair, and also stands a chance of being beaten by an AX on or off-suit. Dump it quickly.

Answer 2:

If the game is loose-passive, don’t you have to make this assumption? They’re passive, so they don’t bet without a hand, and they’re loose, so this flop could easily have smacked the bettor in the head. Since it’s the button, you might say, “He’s just betting the button.” But that’s not particularly passive. Given that, you have 6 outs to over cards that often won’t be good. On the fly, I’d call it 3 outs and do the pot-odds math. Fold here. Don’t fold always.

Answer 3:

It’s worth a bit more than that.  Given that he is getting at least 7:1 odds (maybe more?) on a call, he only needs 6 good outs to make the call break even. If you give 4 outs for the over cards, and 2 outs for the nut runner straight, it’s a call. Of course, whether he is actually *in* this position is dubious. I’d say it’s a close fold, and just like someone else, you got to call sometimes. But only call when the opponents are bad and play in a very predictable manner. If you had a backdoor flush, it would be an automatic call.

Answer 1:

Question #1: The $5 is a raise of the forced bring-in which is a bet. In most cases, the $5 is not on top of the bring in, but in addition to it. The total is $5, not $7. So, you should consider it a raise.

Question #2: The answer depends upon the game. In a loose game, go ahead and raise, since most of the time you’ll get callers anyway. But I wouldn’t always raise the full amount or you’ll scare out everyone including the bring-in. However, in some very loose games or games with one or more maniacs, you can raise the max and still get customers. In a tight game, I’d mostly, but not always, call with the high pair and try to make money on the later streets. Yes, other hands get a shot, but you have to accept a little risk here to make some money. The key is not to get married to the pair if it gets pastfifth streetand you’re still 5 ways and unimproved.

Answer 2:

One other thing. In a no-ante game, the delayed raise becomes a nice play from time to time. That is, limp with your high pair (A’s or K’s), hope that someone else raises, then you can re-raise and attract tied-on callers.

Answer 3:

You raise early with a big pair for protection, (in low limit) to limit the field and to align your self with a smaller pair. what may be the best hand will be a dog by 5^th street against many players (if you don’t improve).don’t limp with big pairs in low limit 7 stud raise or re-raise to limit the number of callers and get it heads up. then you’ll have the best chance of gaining the pot outright .

Answer 1:

I assume that for the first hand you mean two aces and two deuces both suited. That hand is far superior to the second hand against random other hands due to the far greater probability of getting the lock low. A-2 will beat 2-3, 3-4 and many other low combinations that could win low from A-5. And the extra deuce protects you somewhat from a low being counterfeited on the board or quartered. The probability of a straight is fairly low when you need a run of exactly 3 intervening cards so that has little effect. With both of these, your main shot at high are from a flush or the pair of aces. The paired deuces mean that if your low is counterfeited, at least you have a set or better for high.

Answer 2:

According to Doc Hutchison’s Omaha HiLo Hand Selection Point System the A2sA2s beats the A5sA10s easily. Hand one gets 39 points…. 20 for A2, 3 for 2-2′s, 4 for Ace suited, 4 for Ace suited again and 8 for a pair of aces for 39 points. Doc says you should consider raising for hands with more than 30 points. Hand two gets 27 points… 10 points for A-5, 4 for Ace suited, 4 for Ace suited again, one point for the 10 kicker and 8 for a pair of aces for 27 points. I was surprised at the point total for hand 2. I would have thought it would be lower, but the pair of aces really kicks it into a higher level.

Answer 3:

Just goes to show that point systems don’t work. In a typical looseCaliforniagame where you can expect 4-5 callers on the lop, AA5T is just playable, and not at all because of the pair of Aces. Big pairs only really matter in tightOmahagames where only 2-3 players see a flop. Even there, having a low of A5 won’t let you stay for most flops.

1.  Could someone explain the concept of re-buying for me? Is a re-buy an ability to re-enter somewhat like a double elimination, except that a re-buy requires additional money to move to a loser’s bracket?

Answer 1:

A re-buy is the ability to buy a predetermined amount of additional chips at a predetermined cost. Re-buy rules are different at each tournament, so ask what the re-buy rules are. Some tournaments have only one re-buy and some have unlimited re-buys up to a specific point in the tournament. Some tournaments require you to be under a specific chip count to get the re-buy, others let you re-buy at any chip count. Some tournaments allow an add-on at a specific point in the tournament, some don’t.  An add-on, much like a re-buy, just gives you additional chips at a specific price. You mentioned,Louisiana. I play in tournaments in Kinder.  In their tournaments on the first and second Sat of each month, they allow only one re-buy and you can get it at any chip count and at any time up until the break.

Answer 2:

When you play a tournament, you pay some amount of money, call it X, and receive some number of chips, call them C. A re-buy is an OPTION to pay more money (sometimes the same amount of money as X, sometimes different) and receive an additional amount of chips (sometimes the same amount of chips as C, sometimes
different). There are usually conditions attached to a re-buy. A couple common conditions are

– you can only re-buy once (or twice, or 3 times), OR
– you can only re-buy if the number of chips you have goes below some threshold.

Usually the OPTION to re-buy is only allowed in the initial stages of a tournament. Usually something like the 1st 3 rounds or the 1st hour. The concepts of ‘double elimination’ or ‘loser’s bracket’ in general are not used in poker tournaments and have nothing, per se, to do with re-buys. (Although, if one goes broke, and then re-buys, you could think of it as ‘re-entering’ the tournament; but usually one does not NEED to go broke to re-buy) An ADDON is simply another name for a REBUY. The catch is that this OPTION can only be exercised at one specific moment in the tournament — when the round that is the last round in which it is possible to REBUY has ended, and before the next round begins.

Answer 3:

With regards to add-ons, and re-buys, it makes sense to look at what it gets you. If the tourney is $25 for $500 in chips, and there is an add on of $500 in chips for $15, then by all means do it! If you are late in a tournament (Near the money), and the re-buy could make the difference between placing final table (Or whatever the payout is),
and not…then also think about doing it.

Answer 1:

That’s not a good candidate for simulation. That question can easily be addressed by direct computation. I think the issue of giving value to two pair or three jacks in draw poker was addressed in an article in Operations Research. It didn’t use much advanced math either. You can find the citation by going to the IFORMS website and doing a bibliography search on keyword poker. That article did not use simulation. You might think about 7-card stud for questions that get too cumbersome to address directly and are better suited to simulation.

Answer 2:

You could try a problem like if I am sitting in an O/8 game with an A-5 and a 2-3-8 flop, what is the likelihood that another player has seen the flop with an A-4 or an A-5. The probability varies with the number of players calling pre-flop. This would vary with how loose the game was, starting hand selection, etc. The Turbo O/8 program would be useful to address this. The answer would be useful to me the next time that I am seated in a game with the A-5 and a 2-3-x(x=6+) flop. A different type of problem would be to simulate the probabilistic distribution of outcomes in a session (or week, month, or year) for a poor player, average or good making some assumptions about typical pot size, contribution, and probability of winning hands. I’d like a curve that shows how likely is it that I’d lose 8 sessions out of 10 if I average winning 2BBs per hour. I want to be able to see when I should begin to disbelieve that I really average 2BBs.

Answer 3:

Since this evidently is a statistics project, here is my suggestion: calculate the probability of various hands being dealt in 5 cards (as they are in 5-card stud). I suggest 5-card stud because the calculations will be the easiest. Also, you can check your numbers (remember to show your work, now) for the probability of hands against any number of poker sources. Then simulate a buttload of 5-card hands. You can compute standard deviations, variances, and other interesting things for various numbers of
hands, and get some real-life, hands-on experience in how different theory and reality can be.  How likely is it that the hands will reflect probability calculations after 100 hands are dealt? After 1,000? (If you have a computer, after 10,000 or 100,000?)  You can begin to see why even good poker players can lose a lot of money, especially in the short run. Notice how, for large numbers of hands, the results tend to “converge” around the probable outcomes. This is a demonstration of Large Numbers.

Answer 1:

You were right; your friend was wrong. I wouldn’t play that hand even with normal distribution of low cards. An 8 low with no ace is a lousy hand — even lousy if ALL the cards are suited. If all the cards were suited and your straight and flush cards were live, it’s an easy call for the bring-in. Otherwise, I would only play it if I was the only low hand.

Answer 2:

As a long time player of hi lo 8 or better stud, and a reader of the good books on the subject, you were totally correct in your play of this particular hand. I personally don’t like to get involved with an 8 low unless it is reasonably smooth with one ace. I think that even if I had 8 6 2 with 2 suited, a good argument could be made about throwing such a hand away, unless one was absolutely sure there were no lows out there, rarely the case in an active game. Some people will always play 876 off suit or two suited, thinking of the straight, but this can be an enormous trap. In this game, especially with many live players, a great deal of money can be saved by folding your marginal hands and thinking good thoughts about the money you are saving yourself when you do. The aim of the game as always is to scoop the entire pot, and even one hand an evening where you have the patience to wait, can be enormously profitable, many, many times the big bet per hour or two which is supposedly what everybody is aiming for. I can think of occasions at 5 l0 play where a profit of several hundred dollars over a few hours was a function of l or 2 of these hands. As always, I underscore my tightness in this type of game for openers (although not once one has caught good), so you have to take my take on openers under consideration. Others may feel differently and play well out of weakened openers with a better read on players than I usually get, a point I am still working on. But hi lo of this type, without a declaration, is one game where a multiway pot and a good holding do not always require an enormous amount of psychology, except in terms of maximizing your implied odds.

Answer 3:

“As a long time player of hi lo 8 or better stud, and a reader of the good books on the subject, you were totally correct in your play of this particular hand. I personally don’t like to get involved with an 8 low unless it is reasonably smooth with one ace. I think that even if I had 8 6 2 with 2 suited, a good argument could be made about throwing such a hand away, unless one was absolutely sure there were no lows out there, rarely the case in an active game.” I would throw it away in virtually every situation. ”Some people will always play 876 off suit or two suited, thinking of the straight, but this can be an enormous trap.” This hand is better than it appears if you’re only against one or two opponents. If you are against one low hand, you can often scoop when you pair a card and your opponent doesn’t make a low. Against one or two high hands, any low will get half and you have the straight draw to scoop. ”In this game, especially with many live players, a great deal of money can be saved by folding your marginal hands and thinking good thoughts about the money you are saving yourself when you do. The aim of the game as always is to scoop the entire pot, and even one hand an evening where you have the patience to wait, can be enormously profitable, many, many times the big bet per hour or two which is supposedly what everybody is aiming for. I can think of occasions at 5 l0 play where a profit of several hundred dollars over a few hours was a function of l or 2 of these hands.” I agree. This is the one game where you actually play tighter as the game becomes looser. ”As always, I underscore my tightness in this type of game for openers (although not once one has caught good), so you have to take my take on openers under consideration. Others may feel differently and play well out of weakened openers with a better read on players than I usually get, a point I am still working on. But hi lo of this type, without a declaration, is one game where a multiway pot and a good holding does not always require an enormous amount of psychology, except in terms of maximizing your implied odds.” There’s minimal psychology in this game. It’s more a game of playing situations well. Reading players is not as important as in other games. That’s because you almost always need the best hand for your side to win in a multiway pot, while heads-up play is mechanical. The game comes down to playing the right starting hands, avoiding bad calls on 4th and 5th, and getting full value from your strong hands on 5th and 6th.